Pattern Hack: Adding a zip and hem cuff to TATB Stella Hoodie
4th April 2019
In this blog post, I show you how to insert a zip and a cuffed hem in your Stella hoody from Tilly and the buttons ‘Stretch’ book.
The Stella is the last pattern that I had left to make from Tilly and the buttons “Stretch!” book. I don’t usually wear hoodies unless they had a zip so I decided to add one. The hoody also needed to be a little longer than a standard hoody to keep me warm as I don’t really wear coats on a day to day basis, choosing cardigans and hoodies and thus the need to fulfil the purpose of keeping me warm.
For this pattern hack, I used a 26in zip as I had lengthened the pattern by a couple of inches, if you stick to a standard length just use a 24in zip. Fabric wise, I used 2 metres of sweatshirting that I bought from Crafty Sew and Sew in Leicester the morning after the Dressmakers ball.
1.Cut out your pattern as per usual but add an extra 3cm to the centre of the front pattern piece and the pockets (if you want pockets) .
2. Cut down the centre of the front pattern piece, this is where your zip will go.
3. Construct hood and sew the shoulders together as per the book
4. Ensure edges centre edges of the hood align with the seam allowance for the zip (1.5cm)
5. Attach body, sleeves and cuffs as per the book.
6. Measure the hem of the hoody. Take 5cm off that number.
7. To make the bottom cuff, take the number from step 4 and trace a pattern piece. The height of my pattern piece matched the height of the cuff pattern piece, aka 13.5cm
8. Fold the hem cuff in half and pin it to hem. The hem cuff will be slightly shorter than the hem so you will need to stretch as you sew. To do this measure your cuff and divide into 4 ( use 3 pins as your 3 markers). You will find that each front side is equal to half of the back panel. Match the markers in the cuffs to the side seams, the middle of the back pattern piece. As you sew, stretch both pieces so that the hem cuff is stretched evenly. Optional Step: Topstitch above the hem.
9. Follow the same instructions for the pocket as the book, you will simply have 2 pockets instead of one. I placed the pockets 1.5 inches (approx 4 cm) from the hem, but that’s your choice. However, do ensure that you place them 2 cm away from the edge to allow space for the zip though.